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Planning estimate · Murray, UTWhat is under the old floor decides this job more than the tile you pick. This asks about the subfloor first, because it is the reason flooring quotes change after work starts.
Bathroom flooring has to cope with standing water, so the practical list is shorter than it is elsewhere in the house: luxury vinyl, ceramic, porcelain, and stone if the budget runs to it. This site publishes $1,800 to $3,500 for luxury vinyl, $3,000 to $6,500 for porcelain or ceramic tile, and $6,000 to $12,000 or more for natural stone or a custom layout with radiant heat.
Those numbers look high per square foot until you notice how little of a bathroom floor is actually open. Every cut goes around a toilet flange, a vanity, a door casing and a tub apron, which is why a bathroom runs $1 to $3 per square foot more than an open room of the same size. The fixed costs — lifting the old floor, backer board, setting up and cleaning up — barely move with the area at all, so a 40 square foot bathroom never comes in at a quarter of the price of a 160 square foot one.
The subfloor is the real variable, and it is the one nobody can quote until the old floor is up. A sound deck needs nothing. One that has settled needs levelling compound at $1 to $3 per square foot. One that has been quietly wet at the toilet or the tub needs $600 to $2,500 of repair, and it is not optional if the new finish is tile — a soft deck cracks grout within a season and then cracks tile.
The single biggest unknown. Sound costs nothing, uneven costs $1 to $3 per square foot in levelling compound, and soft costs $600 to $2,500 in the Salt Lake area. If the floor feels springy near the toilet or the tub, assume the higher end.
Luxury vinyl is cheapest and by far the most forgiving of a deck that is not perfectly flat. Ceramic is the value option in tile. Porcelain is harder and less absorbent. Large-format adds $2 to $5 per square foot in labour and demands a flat floor; mosaic and patterns add $1 to $3.
Vinyl and laminate lift quickly. Tile set in mortar is the slow one — it often takes the backer board and some of the subfloor with it, and it is the reason a retile costs more than a first tile.
Bathrooms carry a small-room surcharge because everything is cut around fixtures, and the fixed costs of the job do not scale down with the area.
Pre-1980 sheet vinyl and, more often, its black adhesive can contain asbestos. Testing runs $150 to $350 and takes a few days. Murray has housing well predating the phase-out, which is a reason not to start the job with a scraper on a Saturday morning.
An electric mat is $8 to $15 per square foot plus about $200 for a thermostat, and it can only go in while the floor is open. It normally needs its own circuit — and if the panel has no spare way, that is an electrician and a permit before the tiler arrives.
Send a couple of photos of the bathroom, rough dimensions, and say roughly when the house was built and what is underneath the floor. You will get a straight answer about what the drain, the subfloor and the panel will allow before anyone talks about tile.
This site publishes $1,800 to $3,500 for luxury vinyl in a standard bathroom, $3,000 to $6,500 for porcelain or ceramic tile, and $6,000 to $12,000 or more for natural stone or a custom tile layout including radiant heat if it is added.
Not for the flooring itself — that is finish work. A heated floor that needs a new dedicated circuit does need an electrical permit; a new circuit commonly runs $50 to $200 on top of the mat. Confirm with Murray City Building Division at 801-270-2431.
Luxury vinyl is one to two days. Tile is two to four days including cure time before the room can be used. A heated mat under tile adds a day or two, and the thermostat should not be run until the mortar has fully cured.
Sometimes, but it is usually a false economy in a bathroom. It raises the floor height, which affects the door and the toilet flange, and it means you never find out what the deck underneath is doing. In a room where a slow leak is the most likely failure, seeing the subfloor is worth the extra day.
Not in a bathroom. It is genuinely waterproof, it is warmer underfoot than tile, it is quieter, and it tolerates a subfloor that has moved — which in an older Murray house is a real advantage. Tile is harder wearing and holds value better, but the gap is much smaller than it was ten years ago.
Fix it properly before anything goes down, and find out what caused the water. A soft deck under tile cracks grout within a season and then cracks tile. If the budget is tight, luxury vinyl over a repaired but slightly imperfect deck is a reasonable answer where tile would not be.
If the house predates 1980, yes. Sheet vinyl and particularly its black cutback adhesive were common asbestos-containing materials. Testing is $150 to $350 and takes a few days. It is a small number set against the cost and disruption of discovering it mid-job.
Almost always, and it is worth it. Tiling around a toilet base looks exactly like tiling around a toilet base, and it leaves a joint that will fail. Pulling and resetting it is a small line item and it also gives you a look at the flange and the subfloor immediately around it, which is where leaks usually start.